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“I think now the modern man in Nigeria would have a colored suit, for example. A few years ago, to see a man in a colored suit was ridiculous. I know five years ago I made a suit that was red and I received a lot of backlash. But now I see men with a pink suit, a green suit, a yellow suit, and I’m like, whoa! I think men are open to color. I think that’s one of the strongest advances. It’s exciting.” “The caftan is our luxury piece. In Nigeria, we’re not allowed to wear sandals or slippers when clubbing, but if you wear a caftan and slippers, you’d be allowed into a club. When they see you in a caftan, they think you’re wealthy. It’s a sign that you’re doing well, you’re a man of leisure. It’s a staple here.”

ChibI megumI tadokoro shokugekI no soma food wars Shirt

Sitting down with me before his Lagos Fashion and Design Week Spring 2017 show, where his new collection, School of Rejects, explores Oke-Lawal’s all-boy schooling, the former LVMH Prize finalist talks what’s hanging in every Nigerian man’s closet, the new fashion tribes, and how his father was a major style influence. “My dad is really stylish. He kind of rebelled and left Nigeria with his friends and started traveling when he was 16. He used to wear berets and all of these strange things. He always says, ‘You know you got your fashion from me.’ I feel like the reason I was able to have a sense of style is because my parents were very open. I think they were also sort of adventurous in terms of style when they were growing up. I’ve had friends come to my house in the weirdest short-shorts, and my parents are like, “Okay, interesting.” And they wouldn’t say anything about it, so I think that’s what allowed me to be expressive in terms of my style and experiment as much as I have. To be honest, when I was growing up, my parents’ friends would be like, ‘Why are you allowing him to wear this?’ I think it was just them knowing, Okay, this child is quite different from our other children, and if we force him to be this and that, it might not necessarily work out. But most parents aren’t like that.”

ChibI megumI tadokoro shokugekI no soma food wars Shirt Hoodie

Within minutes of speaking to Orange Culture’s Adebayo Oke-Lawal, I realize that making a splash with menswear is simply the Nigerian way. Never mind the kaleidoscopic patterned shirt the designer is sporting from his Lagos-based menswear collection—a collection that in five years has become a cult favorite among fashion-forward Lagosians who are eager to push the boundaries of gender fluidity through dress. As Oke-Lawal tells it, for years fashion has been a way for men to communicate wealth, status, success, and personal taste. From donning traditional caftans and fila hats to the new influx of colored suiting, men’s grooming habits, and the robust Nigerian wedding scene pioneered by a younger generation, presentation is a point of major consideration. Nigerian menswear is also enjoying a major moment of transformation and evolution, says Oke-Lawal, largely influenced by social media and the ever-changing masculine ideal. It’s a cultural shift that comes at a pivotal point in the country’s political climate, as the economy works to diversify itself to include other strains of commerce, like fashion and retail.

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